Across the country, more towns, cities and even states are targeting pit bulls, Rottweilers and other dog breeds under increasingly restrictive "dangerous dog" laws. In Minnesota, state lawmakers are hearing a number of proposals that would ban certain breeds in the state, including one bill that would make it illegal for residents to own a Rottweiler, Pit Bull, Chow Chow, Akita or wolf hybrid. Meanwhile, members of the Forsyth County Commission in North Carolina are studying possible regulations for "aggressive" breeds such as German shepherds, Rottweilers, Doberman Pinchers and pit bulls. Similar legislation has been proposed at the state level in Tennessee and Mississippi, and at the local and county level in Oregon, Alabama, Arkansas and other states, according to the American Dog Owners Association.

Breed-specific legislation (also known as BSL) proposals are becoming a common presence in statehouses and city halls across America. Such legislation usually follows on the heels of a much publicized dog attack, and lawmakers claim that targeting specific dog-breeds will help remove dangerous animals from the community. But the effectiveness of BSL in curbing attacks by dangerous dogs is unclear, and the policies that determine what happens to pet owners who share their homes with a "dangerous" breed" vary in each community.

According to an article by Linda S. Weiss with the Animal Legal and Historical Center, BSL "is not an effective approach for regulating dogs' behavior in communities." Weiss goes on to write that bans on specific breeds are little more than comfort legislation and "do not act to effectively regulate the behavior of any breed or of dogs and their owners collectively." Additionally, breed-specific bans routinely face constitutional challenges, with decisions varying from state to state. A 1989 decision by the Kansas Supreme Court upheld a ordinance regulating ownership of pit bulls within a municipality, while a Massachusetts court in 1989 found that a law targeting pit bull ownership was unconstitutionally vague, according to Weiss.

What happens to happens to pet owners who care for pit bulls and other targeted breeds once legislation is passed also varies. Most breed-specific ordinances and legislation have some sort of grandfather clause, allowing owners to keep their dogs, but preventing the purchase or breeding of other dogs in the targeted breed. However, enforcing these laws is difficult, costly and time consuming: according to Weiss, a breed-specific ordinance in Cincinnati, Ohio was overturned after the city began enforcing the ordinance, which lead to "gridlock in the animal control and court systems."

Meanwhile, organizations like the American Kennel Club and the American Dog Owners Association are vocally opposed to BSL. According to the AKC's position paper on BSL, "We support laws that establish a fair process by which specific dogs are identified as ‘dangerous' based on stated, measurable actions—The American Kennel Club strongly opposes any legislation that determines a dog to be 'dangerous' based on specific breeds or phenotypic classes of dogs." The AKC and the ADOA also maintain "legislation watch" web sites, where dog owners can track pet-related legislation. Click here to view the ACK legislative alert page. Click here to view the ADOA legislative update page.

Conversely, many states are proposing legislation that would prohibit insurance companies from denying home owners insurance coverage or unfairly increasing rates based on the breeds of dogs living at the home. In New Jersey, state Assemblyman Niel Cohen is sponsoring legislation that would prohibit insurers from basing policy coverage and costs on the basis of the breed of dog kept on the property.

"In most cases involving a 'dangerous breed,' the owner is the one responsible for teaching the dog its aggressive or dangerous behavior," Cohen said in a statement regarding the legislation.

A Warning to All Dog Owners

As early as the 1960s, experiments have indicated a link between the ingestion of xylitol and hypoglycemia in dogs. However, it has only been recently that the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center has begun to receive reports of xylitol toxicosis in dogs. It is believed that this recent rise is likely due to the increased use of products containing xylitol in the United States.

Effects of Xylitol Ingestion

In both humans and dogs, the levels of blood sugar are controlled by the body’s release of insulin from the pancreas. In humans, xylitol ingestion does not cause any significant changes in insulin levels or, therefore, blood glucose. However, in dogs, xylitol causes a fast release of insulin, which results in a rapid decrease in blood glucose (hypoglycemia).

Clinical Signs

Clinical signs of xylitol toxicity can develop in as few as 30 minutes after ingestion. Clinical signs may include one or more of the following:

• Vomiting
• Weakness
• Ataxia (uncoordinated movements)
• Depression
• Hypokalemia (decreased potassium)
• Seizures
• Coma
• Liver dysfunction and/or failure

Treatment

After ingesting a xylitol-containing product, dogs may receive one of more of the following treatments, depending on the amount of time that has lapsed since the ingestion occurred. The induction of vomiting is recommended if performed very soon after ingestion of the xylitol-containing product but before clinical signs develop. Frequent small meals or an oral sugar supplement may be used to manage dogs that have not yet shown clinical signs. Following the appearance of clinical signs intravenous dextrose can be used to control hypoglycemia. If indicated, treatment for low potassium levels (hypokalemia) may be necessary. Treatment should be continued until the blood glucose levels return to normal.

For more information on this and other poison control questions the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center can be reached at 888-426-4435 or visit their website.

In order for any dental program to work properly, home care follow-up is essential. Brushing your pet’s teeth is the single most important procedure the owner can do to maintain good oral health. If performed regularly, daily brushing will dramatically increase the interval between teeth cleaning appointments.

Plaque is constantly being made and deposited in the mouth. Humans have a buildup of plaque in the morning. This accumulation of plaque makes our breath smell bad. Proper dental care, for dogs as well as humans, can keep plaque buildup under control. People brush their teeth several times daily to remove plaque—why not our pets?

The goal of dental home care is to remove plaque from tooth surfaces and under the gum line before it mineralizes into calculus, a process that occurs within days of a teeth cleaning. Success depends on the owner’s ability to brush the pet’s teeth, as well as the dog or cat’s acceptance of the process. True oral cleanliness can only be achieved through the mechanical action of toothbrush bristles above and below the gum line.

Home care is best started at a young age, before the adult teeth erupt. The younger the animal is, the more likely he or she is to accept it.

Your veterinarian may discuss the advantages of home dental care at the time of your pet’s first vaccinations. Daily brushing not only keeps your pet’s teeth clean and healthy, it also enhances the bond between you and your pet.

A misconception is that hard food keeps pets’ teeth clean. Some believe that when their dog or cat chews on hard food or biscuits, mineral deposits are broken down and the teeth stay clean. This is not true. Granted, animals on soft diets accumulate plaque more readily than those on dry foods, but the only way to keep teeth clean above and below the gum line is by daily brushing.

If you are unsure of how to brush your pet’s teeth, you may want to ask a veterinary hospital staff member for instructions. There is nothing better than a hands-on demonstration for learning this.

Proper brushing technique involves applying the bristles at a 45-degree angle to the gums. Use small circular motions around the outside of the teeth, being sure to get the bristles under the gum line. It is not as important to brush the inside of the teeth, as dogs and cats do not accumulate tartar on the insides of their teeth.

Proper Brushing Technique

The most important area to keep plaque and tartar from accumulating is under the gum line. Adding products such as Oxyfresh to the drinking water or rubbing the teeth with dentifrice impregnated pads may help in home care, but it’s necessary to understand that periodontal disease begins below the free margin of the gum line.

How to get the pet to accept tooth brushing

Start with a healthy comfortable mouth. Untreated problems can cause pain and a non-compliant patient. Dental pathology must be cared for first. If you suspect that your pet has an accumulation of tartar, a painful mouth (he pulls away each time you touch his head or jaw), bad breath, or a problem chewing, drinking or swallowing, a veterinary dental exam is in order.

Choose a proper toothbrush and toothpaste. Toothbrushes have bristles that reach under the gum line and clean the space that surrounds each tooth. Plaque accumulates in this space. Devices such as gauze pads, sponge swabs, or cotton swabs remove plaque above the gum line, but cannot adequately clean the space below the gum line.

The size of the toothbrush you choose is important. There are specific brushes for mouths of long muzzled dogs, as well as small brushes for cats. Each dog or cat must have his or her own toothbrush. Sharing brushes may result in cross contamination of bacteria from one pet to another.

Introduce the toothpaste and toothbrush gradually. When you sense that your pet has had enough, give him reassurance by talking and try again. Expect progress not perfection. Reward progress immediately with a treat or a play period after each cleaning session. Don’t expect to brush your pet’s teeth on the first try. Take time. Each pet is different. Some will be trained in one week, while others will take a month or more. The payoff is well worth the learning curve.

The type of dental home care products dispensed by your veterinarian may vary from animal to animal. Trust your veterinarian to dispense the products that are best suited to your own pet’s dental needs.

Thanks to the creation and marketing of cat litter in the mid 1940's, more and more cats have become indoor-only pets. As such, cats are now leading longer lives, with some living 20+ years! Our homes offer a safer, healthier environment than life on the street. The average life span of an indoor cat is 10 years, whereas the average lifespan of an outdoor cat is just 2 years. There is no doubt that indoors is safer.

Yet, when we choose to make our cats indoors-only companions, we have a responsibility to provide the stimulation that was previously provided by the great outdoors. Scratching and climbing posts become trees; interactive toys become hunted birds, bugs and field mice. A rotating array of cat playthings provides excitement, unpredictability and exercise which, in turn, gives your cat everything it needs while extending its life inside. With that said, many cat lovers still prefer to commune with nature with their feline friends. Fortunately, there are several ways to minimize the risks.

Most importantly, while vaccinations are important for indoor cats, they are absolutely critical to the health of outdoor cats. The threat of rabies, FeLV, FIV, and FIP, transmitted through altercations with wildlife, or interaction with stray, unvaccinated cats, should be enough to have your cat immunized in order to give you peace of mind. All of these diseases can be prevented and can provide your outdoor cat with proper protection should he need it.

If you feel as though your cat deserves the fun of being outside, but want to provide a safe way to experience nature, there are alternatives to opening the door and watching him go. Harnesses and leashes (gasp!) have been developed for cats. Either cat specific or small dog accessories fit well and are relatively inexpensive. Training your cat to walk with the harness takes patience (unless you start with a kitten, in which case it could take less time), but the reward is worth it. Your cat will be able to experience the joys of being outside in a controlled environment. How far he can travel is up to you!

Outdoor enclosures are another great alternative. Since outdoor enclosures are usually homemade, they come in all shapes and sizes. For durability, chicken wire or wire hardware cloth - secured around a simple wood frame - is preferable to ordinary window screening. The most successful structures usually feature climbing and resting furniture inside. A shaded area is necessary for warm or hot weather. Whether you choose an outdoor enclosure or add cat-proof netting to the top of traditional fencing, they are safest used only when you are at home able to check on them often.

Even with the option of training or providing your cat with an enclosed outdoor adventure area, you still need to consider identification. Lost cats result in heartache that can easily be avoided. Microchip and ID tags provide easy identification and may be what reunites you with your cat should he / she get lost or scooped up by a caring, but ignorant stranger.

When deciding whether or not to let your cat outdoors, it is important for you to consider the alternatives. As the pet industry expands and becomes more creative, more and more indoor/outdoor products are going to become available. Of course, there is nothing better than being outside. If you can provide your cat with the proper care and protection, allowing your cat to go outdoors can be a fun and healthy existence.

Domesticated dogs are most likely descendants of wolves. Many behaviors naturally exhibited by dogs are reflections of wolf-like ancestry, rooted in instincts thousands of years old. Some of these behaviors are at odds with the wishes of the dog owner, who wants a domesticated companion that responds to human cues. Understanding the natural basis of canine behavior can be the best place to start a successful human-animal relationship.

Social Behavior: Dogs retain some of the basic behaviors of wolves, including living in relatively small social groups, following a leader, and exhibiting territorial protection. Dogs have relatively stable, hierarchical social structures that mediate interactions between group members and help them avoid regular aggressive confrontations. Complex body signaling of dominant and submissive postures is involved in the establishment and maintenance of these hierarchies. Therefore, in domestic life, it is important for humans to maintain a leadership role in the household.

Communication: Dogs use a combination of vocal, visual and olfactory cues to transmit a variety of messages from friendly greetings to threats. A vocalization should be evaluated in association with the dog’s body language and the situation in which the vocalization is delivered. Visually, dogs use their body posture and expressions to relay messages. A dog that uses body postures to increase apparent size is usually trying to drive off another party. Conversely, dogs that use body postures to minimize their size are often encouraging approach. Olfactory cues play an important role in communication. The scents are often at levels undetectable by humans.

Sexual Behavior: Intact female dogs will come into heat about every six months. During early estrus, the female dog becomes more playful and urinates more frequently. Non-neutered male dogs often exhibit behaviors such as urine marking, mounting, and roaming. Neutering often curtails these undesirable behaviors.

Chewing/Ingestive Behavior: It is normal for dogs to have a desire to chew on a variety of items, and they usually seek items to chew if they are not provided. Dog owners should provide their pets with numerous chew toys.

Elimination Behavior: Dogs do not instinctively know to eliminate outdoors. They start to move away from their nesting area to eliminate when they are about three weeks of age and usually continue to avoid eliminating close to their sleeping and eating areas throughout life. At about eight weeks of age, puppies develop a preference for eliminating on a particular kind of surface (grass, dirt, concrete, etc). This desire often becomes a lifelong preference. Dogs may use urination to signal submission to a person or another animal. This is a normal communication behavior that usually is exhibited by young dogs. Dogs also may eliminate in situations of extreme fear.

An infant brings many changes to a household, and it’s best for your pet if you can make many of these changes during your pregnancy. Cats and dogs are sensitive to routines, and by making changes before the baby arrives, you minimize the chances of your pet resenting the baby when she arrives.

You should assume that you are going have less time for your pet after baby is born. Start by decreasing the number of hours you spend with your dog or cat in the weeks before your due date.

Consider whether your pet’s walking, exercise, or feeding schedules are going to change, and adjust them now.

Evaluate your dog’s obedience training. If he doesn’t respond to commands such as "Sit," "Stay," "Heel," and "No," can’t walk obediently on a leash, has a jumping problem, or exhibits any aggressive behavior, seek professional help immediately.

If you have a cat, make sure her claws are trimmed regularly.

Children can seem very strange creatures to animals. They are loud and fast, erratic and unpredictable—characteristics that can startle or frighten a cat or dog. If your pet has had little or no contact with children, it’s important to begin the socialization process as soon as possible.

As you prepare your home for your newborn (setting up the crib, buying baby powder, lotion, and diapers), allow your pet to see and smell these items so he can get used to them.

Don’t allow your pet to climb onto baby’s furniture or blankets. Cats especially like curling up in the crib or bassinet. If your cat does this, remove him or her and keep the door to the nursery closed.

Get a sealed container for soiled diapers. Cats and dogs are very attracted to odors. Dogs, particularly, love dirty diapers and may drag them around the house.

Create a place for the pet that is off-limits to the baby. Pets, too, need to get away from the baby from time to time.

One of the best ways to strengthen the bond between you and your cat is to play games together. When you play with your cat, you become the most interesting object in his or her life. Not only is playtime fun for your cat, it’s also a great way to get your cat to exercise, both mentally and physically.

Following are six games you can play with your cat. Not every feline will want to play every game on this list, but certainly there are at least a few games here that you and your cat will enjoy. While most of them require objects you may have around the house, there are also a number of toys available that provide the same fun. The key is to actually play with your cat in order to create a fun and lasting relationship with your cat while also keeping them trim and healthy.

Paw Hockey - Play this game in a room with hardwood, tile, or linoleum floors that has at least 10 square feet of free floor space. Break off an eight-inch square of aluminum foil and scrunch it up into a hockey puck shape. (Please remember that foil balls should always be thrown away at the end of the game. They are fine for games, but are not safe for unsupervised play.) Show your cat the puck and then flick it with your fingers so that it goes skittering across the floor. Your cat will then chase after the puck, batting it with his paws and making it scoot from one end of the room to the other. If your cat starts to lose interest in the game, pick up the puck and give it another flick.

Staircase Dash - With your cat at the top of the stairs and you at the bottom, fling a ping pong ball to the top of the staircase, against the side wall, one or two steps in front of where your cat is sitting. The ball bounces down the stairs and your cat should race down the stairs chasing after it. When the ball reaches the bottom of the stairs, probably with your cat just a step behind, fling the ball back up to the top of the staircase. Keep tossing the ball up the steps until your cat gets tired.

Bathtub Scurry - Put a ping pong ball in a clean, dry bathtub. Remove the bottles of shampoo and bars of soap and plug the drain so the ping pong ball doesn’t get lodged there. Put your cat in the bathtub, show him the ping pong ball, and bounce the ball off the side of the bathtub. As the ball bounces around, your cat should chase after it. If the ball starts to slow down, give it a good roll off the side to get it moving again and to keep up your cat’s interest.

Chase the Thing on the String - Get an aluminum foil ball, hollow plastic Whiffle ball, or catnip mouse and tie it to a three-foot piece of twine or heavy string. Pull the string along the floor in front of you, over the cat furniture, or up and down your staircase and let your cat chase after the object. Be sure to allow your cat to capture the object every once in awhile so he/she can feel like a successful predator.

Shadows on the Wall - Turn off the lights in the evening and shine a flashlight on a nearby wall. Dangle bouncy cat toys or other small objects in the light and move them back and forth so their shadows race up and down the wall. Your cat should leap up at the wall trying to catch the elusive prey.