Welcome to Waugh Chapel's Newsletter

If you own a pet, fleas and ticks are nothing new. In a special video report, Dr. Jim Humphries with the Veterinary News Network and PetDocsOnCall discusses the importance of flea and tick prevention and shares tips on how to keep pesky parasites away from your pet.

What is canine influenza?

Canine influenza is a highly contagious respiratory infection of dogs caused by a virus. The canine influenza virus is closely related to the virus that causes equine influenza and it is thought that the equine influenza virus mutated to produce the canine influenza virus.

Two clinical syndromes have been seen in dogs infected with the canine influenza virus - a mild form of the disease and a more severe form that is accompanied by pneumonia.

Mild form - Dogs suffering with the mild form of canine influenza develop a soft, moist cough that persists for 10 to 30 days. Some dogs have a dry cough similar to "kennel cough." For this reason, canine influenza virus infections are frequently mistaken for "kennel cough." Dogs with the mild form of influenza may also have a thick nasal discharge, which is usually caused by a secondary bacterial infection.

Severe form - Dogs with the severe form of canine influenza develop high fevers (104 degrees F to 106 degrees F) and have clinical signs of pneumonia, such as increased respiratory rates and effort. Pneumonia may be due to a secondary bacterial infection.

Because this is a newly emerging disease, almost all dogs, regardless of breed or age, lack immunity and are susceptible to infection. Virtually all dogs that are exposed to the virus become infected, and nearly 80 percent show clinical signs of disease. Fortunately, most affected dogs have the mild form.

Do dogs die from canine influenza

Fatal cases of pneumonia resulting from infection with canine influenza virus have been reported in dogs, but the fatality rate (5 percent to 8 percent) has been low.

How widespread is the disease?

The first recognized outbreak of canine influenza in the world is believed to have occurred in racing greyhounds in January 2004 at a track in Florida. From June to August of 2004, outbreaks of respiratory disease were reported at 14 tracks in 6 states (Alabama, Arkansas, Florida, Kansas, Texas, and West Virginia). Between January and May of 2005, outbreaks occurred at 20 tracks in 11 states (Arizona, Arkansas, Colorado, Florida, Iowa, Kansas, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Texas, West Virginia, and Wisconsin). Infection has also been confirmed in pet dogs in California, Connecticut, Florida, Georgia, Massachusetts, North Carolina, New Jersey, New York, Ohio, Oregon, Pennsylvania, Washington State, and Washington, DC.

How is a dog with canine influenza treated?

As with any disease caused by a virus, treatment is largely supportive. Good animal care practices and nutrition assist dogs in mounting an effective immune response. In the milder form of the disease, a thick green nasal discharge, which most likely represents a secondary bacterial infection, usually resolves after treatment with antibiotics. In the more severe form of the disease, medication and hospitalization are often required.

Is canine influenza virus transmissible from dogs to humans?

To date, there is no evidence of transmission of canine influenza virus from dogs to people.

Do I need to be concerned about putting my dog in day care or boarding it at a kennel?

Dog owners should be aware that any situation that brings dogs together increases the risk of spread of communicable illnesses. Good infection control practices can reduce the risk of infection; however, the risk still exists.

My dog has a cough. What should I do?

Schedule an appointment with your veterinarian so that he or she can examine and evaluate your dog and recommend an appropriate course of treatment.

Canine influenza virus can be spread via direct contact with respiratory secretions from infected dogs, and by contact with contaminated inanimate objects. Therefore, dog owners whose dogs are coughing or exhibiting other signs of respiratory disease should not participate in activities or bring their dogs to facilities where other dogs can be exposed to them. Clothing, equipment, surfaces, and hands should be cleaned and disinfected after exposure to dogs showing signs of respiratory disease to prevent transmission of infection to susceptible dogs. Clothing can be adequately cleaned by using a detergent at normal laundry temperatures.

Is canine influenza transmissible to from dogs to horses or other animal species?

At this time, there is no evidence of transmission of canine influenza from dogs to horses, cats, ferrets, or other animal species.

Periodontal disease is classified under two categories; gingivitis and periodontitis. Gingivitis is the more mild form of periodontal disease. With effective and timely teeth cleaning, gingivitis can be completely reversed.

Early Periodontitis

Periodontitis is a condition that may be controlled but not cured. It is often seen in pets that are over five years old. Most animals with periodontitis have bad breath, tooth mobility and bleeding gums. Severe inflammation of the gums, gum recession, alveolar bone loss (the bone that supports the tooth is "eaten away"), and pustular discharge are common signs of periodontitis.

Moderate-Advanced Periodontitis

Periodontitis is more serious than gingivitis and involves the loss of tooth support with permanent damage. At best, lesions of periodontitis are only partially reversible. Special (oral) surgical procedures are necessary in order to limit the progression of periodontitis.

Advanced Periodontitis

Advanced Periodontitis

Proper home dental care, along with regular veterinary dental checkups, will reduce the risk of periodontitis in your pets.

The idea of "training" your cat may either amuse or frighten you, but don't worry - it is possible. According to experts, it isn't that tough to teach your cat to accept a carrier, and once you do, you'll find lots of practical reasons for containing your kitty.

Some key pieces of advice for acclimating any cat to a carrier are to give your cat plenty of time to adjust and to put cat treats, tasty food or favorite toys inside the carrier in order to entice him.

The biggest benefit of crate training is safety. You'll know where your cat is and he can still be part of your activities. No more "'fraidy cats" getting loose when workmen come to your house. No more hissing fits that annoy or frighten your visitors. No more contortionist cats crammed under the seat of your car.

More and more people are traveling with their cats, and for them, carriers are travel necessities. Loose cats can distract a driver, fall out of windows, get injured by loose objects or get wedged under the accelerator or dashboard. Also, many motels allow pets only when they are crated.

Crating the cat is important even for just a short trip around the block. Obviously, a good many cats and people are injured in auto accidents because their cats aren't restrained. Also, rescue workers may be clawed or bitten by loose cats in car accidents.

Another benefit of crate training is acceptance of a cage if the kitty must be boarded, hospitalized or shipped.

Crates are also useful for training cats that misbehave when separated form their owners. A carrier not only keeps these cats from getting into trouble, but also often serves as a safe haven - a cozy, contained space where the cat has privacy and a place of his own. Of course, a crate at home must be used humanely and not abused. No pet should be left alone in a crate for more than a couple of hours.

Many cats find crates stressful at first. That fear can usually be overcome with patience and treats. You don't have to face the grueling training task unprepared. Many pet shops offer pamphlets on crate training; some even have training videos. At the very least, when you're buying a cat carrier, ask for the manufacturer's sales sheet describing the crate's features. It usually explains what size carrier to buy, various uses and the basics of crate training.

Here are some basic steps for crate training your cat:

Place the carrier (with its door open) in a room where he can explore the crate on his own. Put food and toys inside to draw his attention. Leave the crate alone for several days

After the cat adjusts to the open crate, you can lock him inside. Entice him to enter the carrier with food or treats, and then latch the door. The first time the cat enters the crate, he should not be locked inside for longer than 10 minutes. Gradually increase the amount of time he is locked inside. Do not let the cat out if he cries or hisses; that only reinforces bad behavior.

Put favorite toys or soft bedding (particularly an old towel, blanket or sweater that carries the owner's scent) inside the crate in order to help make him feel more secure. In larger crates, you can even put a litter box and water bowl. When kitty settles down, re-open the door to the carrier so he can come and go at will. Once your cat accepts the carrier, the next step is to get him used to movement. The crate should be picked up and carried around carefully. Talk soothingly and give treats.

Slowly acclimate kitty to traveling in your car. At first, just sit in the car with him, and then take him on short errands. Each time you put your crated kitty in the car, increase your travel time. Make the experienceas pleasant as possible - using toys and treats. Don't limit your car trips to visits to the veterinarian's office and boarding kennel.

Admittedly, for some cats, slow training doesn't work. A quick method of getting a cat into a carrier is as follows: Sit the carrier up-ended so its open door is at the top. Hold the cat firmly by the scruff of the neck and gently lower him into the crate. Be sure to support the cat's rump with your hand.

In addition, not every cat needs to travel in a carrier. For a trip to the vet, for example, an especially aggressive cat may do better enclosed in a pillowcase or cloth laundry bag. A docile cat may be content in a wrapped soft towel on the passenger's lap. Owners must evaluate their cat's individual personality and do what they think is best.

Cat carriers (pet carriers) come in all sizes, designs, materials and prices. Pet stores, veterinary hospitals, catalog companies and online outfits offer large choices. Cardboard carriers are not recommended, as most cats can find ways to slip out and escape.

It is always a good idea to keep pets at a safe distance from wildlife. In general, wildlife will shy away from people and pets; however, conflicts with pets can and do occur. It is important to keep in mind that wild animals are looking to survive, and conflicts that occur with pets are often a result of wildlife simply trying to defend themselves, their young, or their territory. Listed below are some tips pet owners can take to proactively prevent conflicts between pets and wildlife from occurring.

Keep your dog leashed and close by at all times.

Keep your cats indoors.

The average life span of a cat kept indoors is more than double that of a cat allowed outside. In addition, there are many hazards that endanger the health and safety of outdoor cats, like automobiles, infectious diseases and parasites and predators. Non-neutered cats also contribute to the cat overpopulation problem.

There are a number of things you can do to help make the transition easier for your outdoor cat to move inside. Walking or exercising them on a leash, building a secure, covered outdoor pen, providing lots of toys and scratching posts, and planting edible cat grasses and plants inside are just a few.

Keep a basic pet and human first aid kit.

When hiking with your pet, only hike during daylight hours and stay alert!

Skunks do not see very well and often respond to abrupt or quick movements by spraying in self-defense. If your pet gets sprayed by a skunk, the following recipe can help diffuse the odor: combine 1 quart of 3% hydrogen peroxide, ¼ cup baking soda, and 1 teaspoon liquid laundry or dish soap. This recipe can be used on animals and clothing. If your pet gets sprayed in the eyes, flushing them with cold water can help ease the discomfort.

During hunting season, there are additional steps you can take to help protect people and pets. When walking or hiking in the woods with your pets in the fall and early winter seasons, it is important to take some precautions. Fall is one of the busiest times for wildlife, as many animals are on the move, actively foraging for food and shelter, mating before winter, and avoiding hunters. There are several things you can do to keep you, your family, and your pets safe and sound.

Be aware of state hunting and trapping regulations.

For hunting and trapping schedules and more information, contact your state division of Fisheries and Wildlife so you know when and where hunting activities are occurring.

Steer clear of areas where hunting is allowed.

When walking or hiking in the woods with your family and pets, be sure everybody wears brightly colored outerwear. Purchase a florescent orange dog coat or vest at your local pet-supply store.

Do not allow your dog to chase deer or other wildlife.

When walking in areas where hunting is permitted, talk loudly and make noise periodically to alert any hunters of your presence.

Know your route and stay on marked trails and pathways.

Owners who want to better understand their canine companions must recognize that dogs see the world from a different visual perspective. The differences begin with the structure of the eye. We have a good idea what dogs see because we know the make-up of the retina of a dog’s eye.

The retina is the light sensitive portion of the eye. This structure is located in the back of the inside of the eyeball. The retina contains two types of light sensitive cells: rods and cones. Cones provide color perception and detailed sight, while rods detect motion and vision in dim light. Dogs have rod-dominated retinas that allow them to see well in the dark. Along with superior night vision, dogs have better motion visibility than humans have. However, because their retinas’ contain only about one-tenth the concentration of cones that humans have, dogs do not see colors as humans do.

Dogs see like a color-blind human. Many people think that a person who is red/green color blind cannot see any color, but there are variations of color blindness. Most people have vision that is trichromatic (three-color variations). People who are red/green color blind are dichromatic (two color variations). Dogs’ retinas can distinguish two colors. These colors are blue-violet and yellow. Dogs can also differentiate between shades of gray. Dogs are unable to recognize green, yellow, orange, and red.

Colors That Humans See

Colors That Dogs See

Dogs use other cues such as smell, texture, brightness, and position rather than relying solely on color. Seeing-eye dogs, for example, may not distinguish between a green or red stoplight; they look at the brightness and position of the light. This, along with the flow and noise of traffic, tell the dog that it is the right time to cross the street.

How a dog’s eyes are set determines the field of view as well as depth perception. Prey species tend to have eyes located on the sides of their head. This gives the animals an increased field of view and allows them to see approaching predators. Predator species, like humans and dogs, have eyes set close together. Human eyes are set straight forward while dog eyes, depending on the breed, are usually set at a 20 degree angle. This angle increases the field of view and therefore increases the peripheral vision of the dog.

Increased peripheral vision compromises the amount of binocular vision. Binocular vision occurs where the field of view of each eye overlaps. Binocular vision is necessary for depth perception. The wider-set eyes of dogs have less overlap and less binocular vision, thus, less depth perception). Dogs’ depth perception is best when they look straight ahead. This is not an ideal situation, as their nose often interferes. Predators need binocular vision as a survival tool. Binocular vision aids in jumping, leaping, catching, and many other activities fundamental to predators.

In addition to having less binocular vision than humans have, dogs also have less visual acuity. Humans with perfect eyesight are said to have 20/20 vision. This means that we can distinguish letters or objects at a distance of 20 feet. Dogs typically have 20/75 vision. What this means is that they must be 20 feet from an object to see it as well as a human standing 75 feet away. Certain breeds have better visual acuity. Labradors, commonly used as seeing-eye dogs, are bred for better eyesight and may have vision that is closer to 20/20.

If you’re silently standing across the field from your dog, don’t expect him or her to recognize you. He’ll recognize you when you do some sort of motion particular to yourself. He may also recognize your presence by his outstanding sense of smell and/or hearing. Because of the large number of rods in the retina, dogs see moving objects much better than they see stationary objects. Motion sensitivity has been noted as the critical aspect of canine vision. Much of dog behavior deals with posture and appropriateness. Small changes in your body posture mean a lot to your dog. Dog owners need to modify training based on this fact. If you want your dog to perform an action based on a silent cue, we suggest using a wide sweeping hand and arm motion in order to cue your dog.

When dogs go blind, owners often wonder if the dogs’ quality of life has diminished to the point where they are no longer happy. Humans deal well with being blind, and humans are much more dependent on their eyes than are dogs. Blind dogs lead happy lives as long as they are comfortable. The owner may need to make some adjustments in the pet’s environment. Some of these adjustments include fencing the yard, taking leashed walks, and not leaving unusual objects in the dog’s normal pathways. Obviously, most blind dogs cannot navigate stairs very well. When blind dogs are in their normal environment, most people don’t know they are blind.

1. Fleas transmit tapeworms in both dogs and cats.
   True
   False

   A: True. Fleas do cause tapeworms in both dogs and cats.

2. The female cat flea will consume ____ times her own body weight in blood daily.
   5
   10
   15
   20

   A: Actually, the female cat flea will consume 15 times her own body weight in blood daily.

3. The female cat flea lays about ___ eggs per day on your pet at her peak production.
   10
   25
   50
   100

   A: The female cat flea lays a lot of eggs, but not that many. Actually, she lays about 50 eggs per day on your pet at her peak production.

4. Adult fleas live and breed well over ___ days on the pet if not disturbed.
   10
   25
   50
   100

   A: It’s hard to believe, but adult fleas live and breed well over 100 days on the pet if not disturbed.

5. Once fleas begin feeding on your pet and begin to lay eggs, they become dependent for a constant source of blood.
   True
   False

   A: Actually, it’s true. Once fleas begin feeding on your pet and begin to lay eggs, they do become dependent for a constant source of blood.

6. Female fleas begin to lay eggs ___________ after their first blood meal.
   12 to 24 hours
   24 to 36 hours
   36 to 48 hours
   48 to 72 hours

   A: Female fleas begin to lay eggs 36 to 48 hours after their first blood meal.

7. The flea is a tropical insect and won’t tolerate freezing temperatures for long periods of time.
   True
   False

   A: The flea is a tropical insect and won't tolerate freezing temperatures for long periods of time.

8. During the _______ months, fleas are most likely surviving as adults on untreated dogs and cats.
   Spring
   Summer
   Fall
   Winter

   A: It's during the winter months that fleas are most likely to survive as adults on untreated dogs and cats.

9. One female cat flea can lay ______ eggs in her lifetime.
   500
   1000
   1500
   2000

   A: One female cat flea can lay 2000 eggs in her lifetime.